Helsinki, Finland

Cruising the Baltic The night ferry between Stockholm and Helsinki sails through a picturesque archipelago. We stayed on deck until dark. Arrival at Helsinki is through its impressively narrow harbor entrance. Sweden liked it so well, they built a fortress spanning the entrance in 1746, and the city grew up to support it. It was never conquered. Navigating past the fortress is very tight for the big ships and ferries of today. The City Helsinki has many interesting attractions, and among them, three churches stand out. Pay attention! There will be a quiz at the end. In the center of the city, just up from the waterfront, is the Lutheran Cathedral, designed by Carl Engel and finished in 1854. Its broad front steps are a popular meeting place. On a neighboring hill the Uspinski Cathedral (Finnish Orthodox) was built by the Russians in 1868. It is the largest orthodox church in Western Europe. The Temppeliaukio Church ("Church in the Rock") was built in 1969 on top of a bomb shelter that could accommodate 6000 people. It is a unique church. Its ceiling is composed of a 13 mile long coil of copper ribbon, and its walls are natural stone. Quiz xx Can you match these interior pictures with the three churches? Prehistory In the National History Museum we saw an amazing display of artifacts from 120,000-125,000 years ago. The stone tools, including this ax head, are the only relics of human habitation in the Nordic countries that predate the last ice age. How could they survive the grinding pressure of mile-thick glaciers? x They were discovered in a cave where they had been protected and left undisturbed. The cave was only recently uncovered, having been filled with debris by high sea levels 8,000 years ago. Design Part of Helsinki has been designated as the Design District, but there is great design everywhere. This is no surprise from the home of Marimekko fabrics, Aalto furniture and those sweet Nokia phones. Many of the small shops seemed like little art galleries. xx xx The architecture, toys, glass, pottery -- even the pasteries -- were spectacular. It's Not Fair! In case you think from our notes that life in Helsinki is perfect, watch the Helsinki Complaints Choir sing the accumulated troubles of Finnish daily life.