Tallinn, Estonia

A short ferry ride across the Baltic and the 60th parallel from Helsinki is Tallinn, Estonia. It was originally two feuding medieval walled cities with watchtowers, ramparts, and churches. x Today, Tallinn is one (apparently) harmonious walled city with medieval watchtowers, ramparts, and churches. Tallinn has many, many magnificent old buildings. Among our favorites is the Church of the Holy Ghost, a double aisled church from the 14th century. x The interior wood is a beautiful mix of plain and ornate. The 17th century clock on the outside still keeps perfect time. x Far newer and far more ornate is Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. The Russians built it in 1900 on the grave of an Estonian hero in an attempt to dampen Estonian nationalism. Among the newest buildings is the fascinating Museum of Occupation. This small museum tells the history of Estonia from 1939 until 1991, during which it was occupied by the Soviets, the Nazis and again by the Soviets. The displays show a poignant row of suitcases from people who attemped to escape, and a frightening line of doors from the Tallinn prison. x Many other artifacts are exhibited, but the video displays of first-person accounts and newsreels covering each decade of the occupation are deeply moving. They can be seen at the museum's Web site. Knowing how the Estonians suffered under the Soviet occupation, we enjoyed the irony of the discarded statues in the basement next to the toilets. Near the waterfront there is a somber memorial to those who died in one of the worst maritime disasters in modern times. On September 28, 1994, the M/S Estonia, scheduled from Tallinn to Stockholm, sailed into a storm with 33-45 mph (52-72 kph) winds, and 10-13 ft (3-4 m) seas. It tipped to starboard, and in 35 minutes sank. The accident claimed 852 lives; only 137 survived. The cause was apparently an improperly secured cover over the car loading ramp.