日本郵便 2019
11/7-8
Today, we fly into Tokyo. We're always warmly received in Japan!
It's not just friends; all Japanese citizens seem to welcome us. In fact, new Emperor
Naruhito and Empress Masako have rescheduled their celebratory parade for this weekend.
Mostly, we'll be in Tokyo, seeing friends, revisiting faves
(Ichi Ichi) and exploring. Then, we leave for Kanazawa, a city where
everyone who's seen it, loves it!
日本郵便 2019
11/10
On perhaps the prettiest Tokyo fall day, while the Emperor was out touring with the Mrs., we visited
the Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden. At 145 acres it is large enough to handle many visitors. There's a traditional
garden, open areas, cherry tree garden, chrysanthemum garden, a conservatory and many paths.
It is a
very,
very,
very,
very,
very,
very
lovely place.
日本郵便 2019
11/11
Considering the Emperor reigns from the Chrysanthemum Throne, is it any wonder this plant exists? At the Chrysanthemum Festival
we saw 3 of these Ozukuri mums on display. Each has been "pinched and trained" for a full year, so it has 100s of blossoms. Internal
structures define its shape; not all blossoms are stars. The Festival displays featured other styles, such as
Kengai, which is pinched and trained to look just like a wild mum.
日本郵便 2019
11/12
In the tiny 'hood of Yanaka, we saw 2 temples: Tennoji and its 1690 copper Buddha were gorgeous; Jyomyoin and its
84,000 Jizōs were fascinating. Jizō is a statue of Buddha as a monk who protects children and travelers. (Our visit was
primo travel insurance!) The temple's Jizōs, some not so ideal, are said to
number 84,000.
But '84,000' is Buddhism's shorthand for 'infinity'. It's actually +/- 25,000 Jizōs, which has as many digits as infinity.
日本郵便 2019
11/13
Ukiyo-e is traditional Japanese block printing. World-famous Ukiyo-e artist
Hokusai, creator of "The Great Kana- gawa Wave," is honored by a museum. In his time, precise registration and layering inks expanded
the medium to many blocks. In the "Wave," Hokusai used 8 woodblocks (actually 4 planks front and back!):
Form lines,
sky color,
boat color #1,
sky darken,
water color,
wave shadow color,
boat color #2 and
droplets.
That's Hokusai doin' the wave!
日本郵便 2019
11/14
The Rikugien [Six Poems] Garden, built in 1702, interprets 88 scenes from classical Waka poetry.
The Togetsukyo [Crossing Moon] Bridge captures poem:
Shadow of the moon moving at night and cry of a crane in marsh of reeds on the shore of Waka, makes me feel so lonely.
How so? Viewed on the side, the hemispheric boulder and its reflection form the moon;
the slightly arced stones are its path across the sky. Understanding Japanese gardens is no vacation! Or maybe it
is.
日本郵便 2019
11/15
The 'hood of Sugamo is known for its Shopping Street, a chaotic mix of stores, stalls, street vendors, cafes, food stands ... and old people.
While workers scurry through skyscapers, elders are in the streets socializing. The Buddhist
temple's senior center has indoor / outdoor
seating and seasonal displays (mums). There's Box Steamer Guy, Rocket Man Chestnut
Roaster, and Hmm. Curiously, several shops sell
red underwear, which reportedly brings good luck.
日本郵便 2019
11/16
Friends Sayoko and Yo treated us to an amazing kaiseki lunch. Venue: Hotel Chinzanso. The
view. The table.
The menu is long, but check it for details. Champagne,
Appetizers,
Clear Soup,
Sashimi,
Simmered Dishes,
Grilled Dish,
Steamed Dishes,
Rice,
Dessert, Tea.
In kanji, kaiseki (懐石) literally means "bosom pocket stone." At first it was a light meal, so referred to a monk's warding
off hunger by slipping a warm stone in his front robe pocket near the stomach. Kaiseki's evolved!
日本郵便 2019
11/17
The Nezu Museum opened a show yes- terday about tea master Fuhaku [1719 - 1806], his ceremony, cups, scoops, concepts, ... .
Seem boring? We guess you'd be fascinated too, but no photos allowed. About 85% of visitors wore
traditional clothes, and packed the garden's tea houses. Nov. is time for unsealing this year's tea.
Kimonos are not rare; daily we see a few in Tokyo. In Asaksa
throngs of tourists parade around in rented kimonos. For Nezu visitors, it's not show. It's for tea.
日本郵便 2019
11/18
Having visited food markets all over the world, we say the Omicho Market in Kanazawa is the tidiest.
They all sell fresh, pure food, but Omicho is spotless. Many products, especially the
roe, are displayed under glass. Or are packaged.
It's Japan, so we noted the perfect apples, the tentacle based
foods, kombu and the street food. In this case
loach. Tidy and tasty!
日本郵便 2019
11/19
Everyone said we'd love Kanazawa, and we do!! It has an easy, 'up' vibe, and the Loop Bus takes visitors to all alpha-sights:
Impressive Castle high above the city; the
fabulous Kenrokuen Garden, one of Japan's
top 3 and a great place for wedding pix;
Omicho market's tasty delights;
the Crafts & Products Museum's collection of
traditional thimbles of silk thread left over from obi making; and the town's
ambient charm. Wish you were here!
日本郵便 2019
11/20
Japanese gardens obviously delight us. Possibly the topic tires you, but bear with us. Who keeps 'em spectacular?
Paths must be swept. Trees must be pruned to become gnarly. Some
must be belted. Some azaleas require support; all need
shaping. Snow can wreck lovely lateral branches, making tepees a winter precaution.
It's
tough, time consuming work
requiring many little knots. We honor the teams' skill, knowledge and commitment. Arigatō- gozaimashita [Thank you]
日本郵便 2019
11/21
It is the end of another very enjoyable visit, affirming the wonders of Japan and its culture. We take with us the wisdom of
the master - that would be the station master of some subway stop on Tokyo's Hanzomon Line - who reminds us of this reality.
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